Creative director Julius Juul continues to mine the austere utilitarian angle, this season exploring the creative territory created by a state of “permanent metamorphosis.” He continued to experiment with the idea of imbalance, but this time in summer-weight materials that wrapped around the body to create an impression of arrested movement.
The look: Austere but not entirely devoid of sensuality, with shapes tailored close to the body and layered. Organic shapes and asymmetric cuts create an impression of dynamic imbalance in his silhouettes, as if they were caught mid-move. Exploring the gradient from white to black gave more depth to this mix of utilitarianism and tailoring, which Juul intended to feel more feminine, even in unisex designs. Textures and hardware details continue to be the only adornments.
Quote of note: “It’s that melting point between industrial and elegance,” said Juul, later describing that in-between state as the moment you exit a nightclub and its soundproof door closes behind you.
Standout pieces: A leather jacket made from layers that curved into each other; liquid dresses that seemed to be bursting at the — many — seams, barely held together by thin strips of fabric; and filmy sweaters for those who dare.
Takeaway: The Heliot Emil universe is a darkly utilitarian one — just because you’re summering in a dystopia doesn’t mean you have to settle for monotone choices or can’t flash a bit of skin.